After the carbond rod was glued with J.B. Weld, I used SuperFil to fill in the gap. |
The fins were vacuum bagged with one layer of fiberglass to help hold the carbon rod on and to make for an overall smoother finish. |
Here is a shot of the fins under vacuum. You can see the blooms of epoxy coming through the release material. |
The fins were notched and the centering rings were glued in place. The centering rings were also made from carbon/foam material for the 38 mm motor mount. The 54 mm motor mount centering rings were machined from 1/16" G10. |
A foamboard jig was used for fine alignment while the fins were tacked in place with J.B. Weld. |
The internal fillets were just J.B.Weld for the 38 mm motor mount. |
The 54 mm motor mount was also set up with a foamboard jig. I used bunjee cord to apply tension to hold the fins in tight. |
The external fillets were also J.B. Weld. |
There was very little space between the 54 mm motor mount tube and the wall of the body tube so I used thin walled carbon tubing to act like a fillet. J.B. Weld was applied to the carbon tube and inserted. It fit very nicely touching the body tube, the fin, and the motor mount tube. |
This photograph shows the activation switch, the camera timer, and the piezo elements inside the center of the payload coupler tube. |
Inside the nose cone was the driver circuit for the locating piezo buzzers, the master on-off switch, and the batteries (not shown). |
The fillets used were Superfil. |
The motor retainer was from Aeropac for the 38 mm version. |
The 54 mm motor retainer was home made. |